Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Snow and Wind over the highest pass

Santiago a jewel of a city
The road down from Portillo to Santiago

These old structures protectedthe train tracks from
being buried by the winter snows.

Top of the world


Uspallata, Argentina to Santiago, Chile - 200 miles

We left Uspallata reluctantly. I was still tired from yesterday and the day began cold and damp. As we rounded the first mountain we entered a deep bowl between high cliffs. Sudden gusts of an invisible but powerful force began to toss me about at will. The first big one blew my tank bag off my bike but fortunately I caught it with my knee and pinned it against the frame. I was leaned over at 60 degrees just to go straight. It was frightening at 50 mph but I had to maintain speed or beblown off the road. As we climbed up to the Argentina-Chile border it got colder and began to rain. Before we reached the border it turned to snow. We got inside the customs building while a wet snow was falling. After a hour of paperwork we were cleared to enter Chile. The entire group waited for Kevin because he had arranged a police escort into Santiago and to the BMW dealer to drop off the bikes for service. I went down on my own because BMW wasn't going to service my Suzuki and I prefer not to ride on snowy roads with bald street tires. As I left the border I noticed the turn-off for Portillo, the Chilean ski resort my two boys have skiied the last two summers. It is starkly beautiful and extremely high. I couldn't ski these cliffs!
I rode into Santiago alone and discovered the cleanest, most modern and prettiest city in Latin America yet. The buildings are tall, shiney and modern and the people sophisticated and handsome.
We've been here three days now and have two more before our final push begins on Saturday. The last stretch is a couple of thousand miles, 800 of which will be our most difficult off road riding yet. I'll purchase a pair of stiff motorcross boots to help keep my lags intact in the rough parts.
An Irish motorcycle writer has joined us for the rest of the trip. He'll be trying to write up what the trip is like for his readers. Perhaps he'll want my comments.

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